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veal and morels…again

June 26, 2011

ok, ok, i promise after this post i will not mention morels or veal for a long time. morels could be another year. the veal…to me it mostly tastes like pork so you will not likely hear me speak of it again.

three years ago my friend tye tilt of mountain valley mushrooms gave me a beautiful bag of delectable black morels. he asked that i use them and perhaps give him a plug in one of my monthly single chef columns. Alas, my dad recommended that I cook up his favorite roasted veal with morels and as veal is not an easy thing to find in teton valley, i never did get the plug in for my favorite fungi friends.

fast forward three years to father’s day. i did not originally plan on writing about my father, but somehow it just came out of my fingers. when i began rambling on about his culinary loves (meat, cream, tarragon and of course morels) the veal and morels dish came to mind. luckily i had an old picture of the time when i made his favorite dish and so i posted it.

fast forward three days. i was running down a trail only to come upon a burn patch brimming with morels.

luckily i remembered that we had a veal tenderloin in the freezer that had  been purchased for christmas dinner and had yet to be consumed. added to that i recently put in my herb garden and had fresh chives, tarragon and thyme at my disposal. unluckily though, the recipe for creme fraiche. my friend heather gave me a recipe months ago but it is still sitting collecting dust on my chef. oh well. i guess as the recipe calls for dried morels, coniac and creme fraiche it was time to create my own version.

Veal with Morels

while i used a veal tenderloin cut into medallions, you could easily use veal chops or pork for that matter…heck chicken would even taste god with this sauce. i will admit, i overcooked my veal…yes we all make mistakes. i will give shortened cooking times  to hopefully change the outcome to medium rare, but i do recommend watch your meat and feel it often to make sure you don’t cook it to shoe leather.

  • 1 veal tenderloin, cut into medialians 1 1/2″ thick
  • 1 tbs canola oil
  • 1 1/2 tbs unsalted butter, divided
  • 1 large clove garlic, smashed
  • 1 sprig thyme, or 1/8 tsp dried
  • 1 1/2 c chopped morels
  • 2 tbs minced shallot
  • 2 tbs brandy
  • 2 tbs beef stock
  • 1/2 c heavy whipping cream
  • 1 tsp chopped chives
  • 1 tsp shopped tarragon
  • salt and pepper
preheat oven to 350 degrees. allow veal to come up to room temperature before cooking. season each side with salt and pepper. heat oil in ovenproof 10-12″ skillet until smoking. sear veal on each side for 1 minute. add 1 tbs butter, garlic and thyme. baste the top of the veal with the butter and oven for 3 minutes. remove skillet from oven, baste the veal again and check the temperature of the meat (by touch or temp – 130 degrees for med-rare). return to oven to continue cooking for another few minutes if needed.
place veal on plate to rest, remove the garlic and thyme sprig from the pan and return the pan to heat. add 1/2 tbs of butter and morels to pan. saute for 2 minutes and add shallots. saute for a few more minutes, until shallots begin to soften.
remove pan from heat and deglaze the pan with the brandy, scraping up any bits from the bottom. return pan to heat, add beef stock and cook 1 minute. add whipping cream and cook until sauce thickens and reduces to 1/4 cup. stir in tarragon and chives and season with salt and pepper.
plate up your veal and cover with morel sauce.

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